Scottish Catholic Observer

It is referenced in Shakespeare’s Macbeth as a plot where the Scottish King sells burial ground to a Danish monarch. Walter Bower, the Scottish chronicler wrote his medieval account of the Scots the Scotichronicon here. It has been fortified during two world wars and is a gateway to much of Scotland’s Celtic past but in truth my travelling companions and I knew little about Inchcolm Island before a group of us (above inset) ­gathered at lunch time in a popular Haymarket pub for, of all things, a stag party. The island is, perhaps, not a typical stag attraction but undoubtedly it was an inspired choice that left most of us wondering why we had not been until now as it is only six miles north from Edinburgh city centre.

The trip was for fellow journalist Cam Brookes who was about to get married. He had been keen to travel to the island for some time and so we boarded a train from Haymarket Station to South Queensferry not knowing quite what to expect. After a short walk by the waters of the Firth of Forth and the Forth Road Bridge we arrived at Hawes Pier to board the Maid of the Forth. In summer the maid has made a name for herself as a popular jazz cruise that serves up mouth-watering barbeques. The journey across the island takes about 45 minutes and proved to be quite a choppy journey as the rain began to pelt down on us and the wind howled. Although blustery—and typical of recent summer form—it didn’t affect the tranquillity of the island.

Inchcolm is now run by Historic Scotland who made us welcome and introduced us to the history of the island. It is recorded that King Alexander I was given shelter by hermits here in 1123 and it was this event that led him to build a monastery on Inchcolm. The island’s mysterious and compelling history dates back even further; the Colm referenced in the island’s name is most likely a nod to St Columba, certainly Inchcolm seems to have been inhabited by Christians dating back as far as the dark ages. We were forced to take shelter ourselves as we were dive-bombed by what seemed like an endless flock of seagulls protecting their young in what looked like a scene from Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds.

It is amazing just how well preserved the ruins (above main) are and it is worth the climb to the top of the bell-tower which was built around 1200. The views from the top are magnificent and it is a spot where you can at least imagine the contemplative existence of the Augustine canons that lived here until the Reformation brought an end to religious life on the island.

Another well preserved area is the warming house where the canons would keep warm from November to Good Friday. On the wall are traces of Latin texts which were used to inspire and encourage, among them one read: “Conscience overcomes whatever evil the tongue has composed.” Contemplative indeed.

Certainly all this religious inspiration spurned a conversation among a group made up of atheists, agnostics and Christians. It was a fitting to toast the stag with a malt whiskey in the tranquil surroundings of the visitor centre which provides a potted history of Inchcolm and staff on hand to answer any questions about the island and abbey.

Amid all this peace and contemplation Inchcolm has seen its fair share of wars and there are a number of arresting myths and legends that feed interest in the island. It played a central role in the Scottish Wars of Independence; one story suggests English raiders stole treasures and a statue of St Columba in 1335. The haul was returned after the sailors survived a life-threatening storm and in a fit of conscience they thought it best to return the stolen items to prevent further wrath.

One item that was not of interest to the English raiders was the Inchcolm Antiphoner, a choir book of plainchant written around 1300. One chant calls upon St Columba for protection making a further connection to the Irish saint and the island. The Antiphoner is one of very few definitive remnants of the Celtic Church that give a strong indication of our Scottish cultural past, pre-reformation.

Post-reformation, the island served as a quarantine station to prevent the spread of disease on dry land and a hospital was even set up here during the Napoleonic Wars. On the east side of the island a tunnel dating back to 1916 remains perfectly intact, it became an essential vantage point during both world wars and was fortified. On April 2, 1916 the chilling sight of two Zeppelins floated over the Firth of Forth, the east of Scotland was unprepared for the night ships that proceeded to drop bombs on Edinburgh Castle, Leith, The Grassmarket, Marchmont and Causewayside. Notably Edinburgh didn’t even attempt a blackout on a night that was said to be perfect for the air-ships.

If anything the attack prepared Britain and with war brewing in Europe, Scotland would be ready. After the outbreak of war with Germany, Inchcolm would be heavily fortified in 1939; 500 Soldiers were garrisoned where the Augustine canons had once contemplated a life of faith.

Today Inchcolm Island is a place of wonder, full of stories that have shaped a shifting Scotland in times of war and peace. The island and its abbey give an indication to how religion, theology and war shaped our culture, mindset and history. From the rarely found Mass Dial to the discovery of music from the old Celtic Church Incholm Island reveals something that was stolen from our culture, in its own understated, stirring and peaceful way.

How to get to Inchcolm Island

Two ferry services operate trips to Inchcolm island, and allow passengers 1.5 hours to explore the island. The Maid of the Forth http://www.maidoftheforth.co.uk and the Forth Belle http://www.forthtours.com both operate from the Hawes Pier in South Queensferry between Easter and late October.

The main feature of the island is the former Augustinian Inchcolm Abbey (Historic Scotland), Scotland’s most complete surviving monastic house. In former times, and perhaps partly due to its dedication to Columba, it was sometimes nicknamed ‘Iona of the East.’

The well-preserved abbey and ruins of the ninth-century hermit’s cells attract visitors to the island.

It was the home of a religious community linked with St Colm or St Columba, the sixth-century Abbot of Iona.

King Alexander I was storm-bound on the island for three days in 1123 and in recognition of the shelter given to him by the hermits, promised to establish a monastic settlement in honour of St Columba.

Though the king died before the promise could be fulfilled, his brother David I later founded a priory here for monks of the Augustinian order; the priory was erected into an abbey in 1223.